Day 22 (July 30)

Down from the high peaks and back into the thick forests, or what used to be thick forests. This is the section of the Nízke Tatry people had warned us about and even advised us to skip if possible. The giant pines here have been devastated by a fierce storm in 2004 followed by an ongoing outbreak of bark beetles starting in 2006. Entire mountains are just sticks and rubble now as the forestry service slowly clears the dead wood, and fallen trunks block the trail and hide the blazes at every turn. It´s easy to get lost, and before long we got pretty good at it. The springs seem to have suffered too; many were simply missing. A very tough day. We don´t regret the choice to stick it out though -- the blasted landscape and skeleton trees are a fascinating sight. I did my part for the recovery by squashing three bark beetles.
The crowds of hikers are much thinner in this area. Camped in the designated site at Priehyba Sedlo, nearly alone.