Sunday, August 9, 2009

Checking in from Vienna

On our way home -- I´ll give more details on the delights of the Magocsi-O´Dea wedding when I have time to write. Here are a few pictures though!









Friday, August 7, 2009

Day 28 (August 5)


Finally rolled snake eyes on the weather with a constant rain from the moment we packed up the tent. Our glorious march into Prešov became a slow soggy slog, and the thick mist got us lost more than once. Finally rejoined the E8 for a short spell, then departed on our last leg, the green trail from Radatice to Prešov. Despite the poor weather this was a lot of fun. Passed a couple of delicious mineral water springs, as much as you want just pouring out of the ground! Just as we began the final descent into town, the skies cleared a little giving us a view of the town below. We made it! One day early at that.
Prešov awaits us, the start of a new adventure.

Day 27 (August 4)

Finally reached a real food store in the town of Jaklovce and stocked up for our final push, but that didn´t stop the produce vendor from chasing after us with a bag of delicious red grapes. Hiked some fierce yellow trail and blue trail, a thick jungle of nettles, thistles, and brambles that did their best to take Deb down. I´m happy to report that she got the best of them in the end.
Set up our tent for the very last time on the top of a little mountain called Kozinec, within easy distance of Prešov tomorrow.

Day 26 (August 3)

More hot dusty country roads with muddy interludes. Village after village without a food store or restaurant -- this area of Slovakia is simply not as hopping as we´re used to. Finally got lucky in the town of Slovinky, with a bar serving beer, potato chips, and ice cream and a small vegetable stand. Not our usual fare for hiking food, but Deb will find a way! As we packed up to leave, the lady from the vegetable stand chased us down and gave us an extra bag of heavy but delicious stuff. These tomatoes, peppers, and apples kept us happy for days.
Camped in an already-scavenged blueberry patch. Someone, human or bear, has beaten us to the punch on this haul. But it still makes a very comfortable bed.

P.S. Happy birthday Julie!

Day 25 (August 2)

Leaving paradise, we hiked on through a series of trails connecting the small country villages and mining towns west of Prešov. These were definitely less-used routes, and the trail blazing and maintenance were pretty spotty in places. We got lost, of course.
The towns themselves left a little to be desired as well -- specifically, food. Running a little low. Still some beautiful sights though. Dusty country roads remind me a little of Texas.
We camped on a ridge not too far from this tiny church.

Day 24 (August 1)

Today we said our sad farewell to the red-blazed E8/SNP at this uncharacteristically terse trail marker. The E8 continues southeast heading to Kosiče, while we follow a many-colored route northeast to Prešov, rejoining the meandering E8 for just a little at the end.
Slovakia has hundreds of trails marked with various colors, but we were a little apprehensive about leaving the main hiking route for the back roads. The trail begins in a boggy pasture, then matures into a huge muddy rut. Then suddenly it´s a pleasant path alongside a bubbling stream. Then suddenly it´s a crazy trail with ladders and bridges over a beautiful little gorge. We´ve entered the region known as "Slovak Paradise!" So it looks like we´re in for some fun after all.
We pass through the cute village of Stratena and the bustling vacation encampment of Dedinky. It seems like half of Slovakia is here enjoying a day by the lake. We took in the air, hiked along to a slightly less crowded side of paradise, the village of Biele Vody, and checked into a hotel for the night.

Day 23 (July 31)

Up at the crack of dawn for our last day in the Nízke Tatry, a series of jagged peaks leading to the last of the range, Kralova Hola, which towers over the town of Télgart. Stark, beautiful sky and valley all around us. Just as we began the final climb, a crazy cloud jumped onto the mountain and belted us with freezing rain and hail from every direction. No lucky shelter for us this time -- we were drenched and chilled in minutes. Barely able to see the trail in front of us, we still had to keep moving just to keep warm.
Just as quickly as it had come, the storm tumbled off to the south, leaving us fresh, clean, and a little dazed for our climb down to Télgart.
We arrived at the town hotel. I thought that the cow tied out front was a good sign, guaranteeing fresh milk and cheese for breakfast. No, looks like the cow is the only one home. Also contemplating the cow was another hiker, Alica from Bratislava going west, and together we found lodging in a pension a little further down the road.