Checking in from Vienna

On our way home -- I´ll give more details on the delights of the Magocsi-O´Dea wedding when I have time to write. Here are a few pictures though!

Day 28 (August 5)

Finally rolled snake eyes on the weather with a constant rain from the moment we packed up the tent. Our glorious march into Prešov became a slow soggy slog, and the thick mist got us lost more than once. Finally rejoined the E8 for a short spell, then departed on our last leg, the green trail from Radatice to Prešov. Despite the poor weather this was a lot of fun. Passed a couple of delicious mineral water springs, as much as you want just pouring out of the ground! Just as we began the final descent into town, the skies cleared a little giving us a view of the town below. We made it! One day early at that.
Prešov awaits us, the start of a new adventure.

Day 27 (August 4)

Finally reached a real food store in the town of Jaklovce and stocked up for our final push, but that didn´t stop the produce vendor from chasing after us with a bag of delicious red grapes. Hiked some fierce yellow trail and blue trail, a thick jungle of nettles, thistles, and brambles that did their best to take Deb down. I´m happy to report that she got the best of them in the end.
Set up our tent for the very last time on the top of a little mountain called Kozinec, within easy distance of Prešov tomorrow.

Day 26 (August 3)

More hot dusty country roads with muddy interludes. Village after village without a food store or restaurant -- this area of Slovakia is simply not as hopping as we´re used to. Finally got lucky in the town of Slovinky, with a bar serving beer, potato chips, and ice cream and a small vegetable stand. Not our usual fare for hiking food, but Deb will find a way! As we packed up to leave, the lady from the vegetable stand chased us down and gave us an extra bag of heavy but delicious stuff. These tomatoes, peppers, and apples kept us happy for days.
Camped in an already-scavenged blueberry patch. Someone, human or bear, has beaten us to the punch on this haul. But it still makes a very comfortable bed.

P.S. Happy birthday Julie!

Day 25 (August 2)

Leaving paradise, we hiked on through a series of trails connecting the small country villages and mining towns west of Prešov. These were definitely less-used routes, and the trail blazing and maintenance were pretty spotty in places. We got lost, of course.
The towns themselves left a little to be desired as well -- specifically, food. Running a little low. Still some beautiful sights though. Dusty country roads remind me a little of Texas.
We camped on a ridge not too far from this tiny church.

Day 24 (August 1)

Today we said our sad farewell to the red-blazed E8/SNP at this uncharacteristically terse trail marker. The E8 continues southeast heading to Kosiče, while we follow a many-colored route northeast to Prešov, rejoining the meandering E8 for just a little at the end.
Slovakia has hundreds of trails marked with various colors, but we were a little apprehensive about leaving the main hiking route for the back roads. The trail begins in a boggy pasture, then matures into a huge muddy rut. Then suddenly it´s a pleasant path alongside a bubbling stream. Then suddenly it´s a crazy trail with ladders and bridges over a beautiful little gorge. We´ve entered the region known as "Slovak Paradise!" So it looks like we´re in for some fun after all.
We pass through the cute village of Stratena and the bustling vacation encampment of Dedinky. It seems like half of Slovakia is here enjoying a day by the lake. We took in the air, hiked along to a slightly less crowded side of paradise, the village of Biele Vody, and checked into a hotel for the night.

Day 23 (July 31)

Up at the crack of dawn for our last day in the Nízke Tatry, a series of jagged peaks leading to the last of the range, Kralova Hola, which towers over the town of Télgart. Stark, beautiful sky and valley all around us. Just as we began the final climb, a crazy cloud jumped onto the mountain and belted us with freezing rain and hail from every direction. No lucky shelter for us this time -- we were drenched and chilled in minutes. Barely able to see the trail in front of us, we still had to keep moving just to keep warm.
Just as quickly as it had come, the storm tumbled off to the south, leaving us fresh, clean, and a little dazed for our climb down to Télgart.
We arrived at the town hotel. I thought that the cow tied out front was a good sign, guaranteeing fresh milk and cheese for breakfast. No, looks like the cow is the only one home. Also contemplating the cow was another hiker, Alica from Bratislava going west, and together we found lodging in a pension a little further down the road.

Day 22 (July 30)

Down from the high peaks and back into the thick forests, or what used to be thick forests. This is the section of the Nízke Tatry people had warned us about and even advised us to skip if possible. The giant pines here have been devastated by a fierce storm in 2004 followed by an ongoing outbreak of bark beetles starting in 2006. Entire mountains are just sticks and rubble now as the forestry service slowly clears the dead wood, and fallen trunks block the trail and hide the blazes at every turn. It´s easy to get lost, and before long we got pretty good at it. The springs seem to have suffered too; many were simply missing. A very tough day. We don´t regret the choice to stick it out though -- the blasted landscape and skeleton trees are a fascinating sight. I did my part for the recovery by squashing three bark beetles.
The crowds of hikers are much thinner in this area. Camped in the designated site at Priehyba Sedlo, nearly alone.

Day 21 (July 29)

Escaped from the crowded bunkroom at the crack of dawn and hit the trail. Excellent to be up early -- the crowds are still snoozing and the animals are out, we saw marmut and reindeer. The mountains continue to grow higher and higher, great views from the ridges but the peaks themselves completely socked in fog.
After a bit the trail becomes a road -- someone has arranged these mountaintop rocks, many of them as big as us, into a paved highway. We followed these up the famous peak Chopok, where we had an excellent lunch in the chata at the top. Energized with cabbage and ham, we decided to make a long day of it and hiked all the way to the village of Čertovica, where camping is allowed. Missing the thrills of a private room with plumbing, though, we opted to stay in the pension instead.

Day 20 (July 28)

Steep climb up from our camp, and after a lot of work, things begin to feel very high -- forests give way to small clusters of dwarf pines, and eventually the the grassy rocks peaks. Donovaly is tiny far below, and views are great in every direction -- but we´re looking east, where our trail follows the ridge with every peak a little higher than the last. A little daunting, but very beautiful.
At days´ end we hiked down the ridge to the next legal camping spot, Durkova Shelter. The ladies (mother and daughter) who run this site fed us delicious lentil soup and fried cheese and informed us that we can only use the tent if the shelter is full (it´s definitely not full; we´re the first ones there) so we´ll be staying in the bunk room. It doesn´t look bad though -- until new hikers begin arriving every few minutes. After weeks of being more or less alone on the trail, it´s clear that we´re now in a very busy section. Managed a restless night of sleep over the constant racket of our comrades shuffling, giggling, and snoring.

Day 19 (July 27)

Our hike through the Nízke Tatry range starts with a short day out of Donovaly, so we left after a hearty lunch -- perhaps a little too hearty; the hike was a bit more challenging than we expected for the afternoon. The rules in the Nízke Tatry are very strict: Camping only in eight official spots, no picking any fruits (too bad, blueberries look nice), and hiking allowed only from an hour after dawn to an hour before sunset. Still, we made it to the first legal camping spot, Hiadelske Sedlo, with time to spare. We met some young Slovak lads and bartered granola bars for fresh roasted mushrooms, which Deb finds delightful. (Maybe not everybody is so strict about following those rules.)